The most curious secrets of San Fermines

On July 7th, the protagonist is San Fermín. You can experience the excitement of seeing his image carried in the procession and having jotas sung to him at different points along the solemn route. A solemn moment that greatly surprises those who visit Pamplona/Iruña that day. The life of this saint is closely linked to Pamplona. It is said that he was the son of a Roman leader and was converted and baptized by Saint Saturninus, the patron saint of the city, who is not the first as many people think. In honor of San Fermín, the pa

Another event not on the official program and not even with a fixed date is the "Struendo," which was born in 1964 when a group of friends from the Irrintzi club had the idea of going out at night playing bass drums, tambourines, txistus, and practically anything that makes noise. Although it doesn't have a fixed day, it does have a fixed start time: at 11:59 p.m., hundreds of people leave Casa Marceliano to spend hours wandering the streets of the Old Town.

When dusk falls in Pamplona/Iruña, with no fixed schedule, but around 10:30 p.m., you can see bulls and steers running alone up the Cuesta de Santo Domingo in the dark, practically in complete silence, broken only by the shepherds' staffs. It's a fleeting moment, lasting only a couple of minutes, but offering magical views. Tickets to see it are raffled off in advance; however, you can see it without a ticket from the Bajada del Portal Nuevo.

The first "little moment" of the San Fermin Festival is the lunch before the "chupinazo" (fireworks) on July 6th. An event that no one misses. It's traditional to get together with friends or family; but if you're not from Iruña and want to participate, it's easy. Most people eat outside, and there's always a space to enjoy some lean meats with ham and fried eggs, or any other hearty meal that helps you endure the most festive day of the year in Pamplona.

Outside of official events, Pamplona/Iruña has no shortage of small, almost "secret" rituals that are worth knowing and enjoying. One of them is eating freshly baked churros on the wood-fired stoves of Churrería la Mañueta, a family business open only 14 days a year: the week of San Fermín, the Sundays in October, and a couple of Saturdays just before the festivities. This year is a special occasion because they will be celebrating their 150th anniversary.

The giants, almost 4 meters tall, dance to the sound of bagpipers, reminiscent of a typical toy for children in Pamplona. The Big Heads and Kilikis (smaller and wearing tricorn hats), accompanied by Zaldikos (little horses), chase adults and children with their foam sticks. They are such famous characters in the city that some of them, like Caravinagre, have been featured on the festival's posters for several years.

Sanfermines aren't just celebrated in Pamplona. The beautiful town of Lesaka also launches the chupinazo (fireworks) on July 6th, ushering in music, dance, and joy. One of the most spectacular traditions takes place in this town on July 7th: the "ezpatadantzaris" (people who dance the "Zubigainekoa" on that day, a dance that symbolizes the peace signed in the 15th century between the neighborhoods of Lesaka).

Another "moment" is the so-called "Espadrille Dance," held on the first floor of the Nuevo Casino, overlooking the Plaza del Castillo. It began with the custom of having hot chocolate for breakfast after the running of the bulls and ended up being accompanied by music. What happens during San Fermin when the music plays? The desire to party increases, and it ended up becoming a morning party that has become a tradition.